After a long and tasty evening of researching tapas bars in Madrid, our last stop was my favorite. At ?18 the dinner we ordered wasn't cheap, but when shared, and paired with wonderful ?4 glasses of wine, it was both a great value and, it seems from this vantage point, may become a lifelong memory. I learned a good trick from Jorge, my guide: In a tapas bar, order your glass of wine first, before ordering any food, and wait as if expecting a free treat (which is expected by locals but often not given to clueless tourists) — and you'll get a small plate of some delicacy for no extra cost. Then order your food. This stop (where we shared the dinner, and had two glasses of fine wine and the small starter plate) cost us about $15 each.
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