I hunger for culture that is there with or without tourism. When I'm in Scotland, it seems the folk music or the kilts or the haggis is there at least in part for the tourists. Paris feels like more of a cultural powerhouse. When traveling here, I always feel tourism is like a bug to Paris--it bounces off the windshield with the city barely noticing...and sometimes, it leaves its window open and we can slip in through and be really inside. One way get really inside, culturally, is to be at the back of St. Sulpice church between the Masses on Sunday and climb up into the organ loft. It was my dream to return to the loft of St Sulpice with our TV camera and enjoy perhaps Europe's greatest active pipe organist, Daniel Roth, at work.
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