There's something enchanting about Florence at midnight. Here, after a long evening of checking out restaurants for my new Italy guidebook, my research assistant Karin and I finish the day on what's considered the first square of the Renaissance, Piazza della S. S. Annunziata, with the delicate arcaded porch of Brunelleschi's Hospital of the Innocents. Downtown Florence is essentially traffic-free now, and it feels completely safe.
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